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The taste of homegrown vegetables, picked fresh from the garden,
is so superior to store-bought we often can't resist the notion
of growing our own. The only mistake enthusiasts make is they grow
far more than their family, friends, and relatives can consume because
they didn't anticipate the incredible yield.
Where To Grow:
First off, vegetables need to grow in the sunniest part of your
garden (minimum 6 hours direct sun), away from tree roots, in well-drained,
level soil with easy access to a garden hose. You can improve the
condition and fertility of your soil by digging into the top 20
cm - 30 cm (8" -12") peat moss, manure, and/or compost
as well as granular Parkwood™ Garden-All 4-12-8 the fall before
you want to plant.
What to Grow:
Next, decide what you want to grow and sketch it out on graph paper.
Group the vegetable crops according to height to prevent one shading
another. Plan to put the small-growing, quick-maturing ones together
as well. Remember, some vegetables really like to sprawl like pumpkins
and squash. In a modest suburban backyard, are these really practical?
And how many recipes do you have for so much Zucchini? Corn is another
crop that requires a fair bit of space and can potentially shade
other vegetables. It's also a favourite with raccoons that inevitably
raid the patch the night before you want to.
How To Plant:
You can grow vegetables from seed in propagation trays in your home
in March/April. Or you can sow seeds directly into cool soil in
April for the best yields of peas, lettuce, onions, radishes, beets,
and spinach. These particular seeds can be sown again in late August
for a second "cool-weather" crop that matures in fall.
Lastly, you can purchase started plants in May at a Sheridan Nurseries
Garden Centre.
It's very important to read the seed package or growing tag to know
exactly how much space to leave between each plant and the correct
distance between rows. Some vegetables, like Carrots that grow profusely
and quickly, need to be thinned out so they have sufficient room
to mature. This kind of information is also clearly indicated. At
the time of planting started vegetables, water in Parkwood™
Transplanter 5-15-5 to establish strong roots and minimize transplant
shock.
Maintenance:
Four weeks after planting apply more granular Parkwood™ Garden-All
4-12-8 for a slow, steady release of nutrients all summer long.
Vegetables won't tolerate competition from weeds so keep the area
weed-free. This can be done by laying down porous landscape fabric
and/or a thick layer of mulch such as cedar mulch, pine needles,
or bark chips between rows. If necessary, pull weeds by hand or
gently cultivate with a hoe without disturbing shallow roots.
Watering is also crucial to success. Never allow the soil to dry
out completely. It should be moist at all times. Feel the surface
with your hand for coolness or dig down 10 cm (4") to see exactly
how far water has penetrated.
Watch carefully for insects and disease. Sheridan Nurseries sells
several lines of natural environmentally friendly insecticides and
fungicides that can be used safely by simply following the package
directions. Consult one of our experts for easy solutions to your
questions.
Lastly, harvest your vegetables promptly when they're at their peak.
You can freeze or give away the surplus.
Tomatoes:
Selecting what tomato varieties you wish to grow depends on your
preference for such things as sweetness, meatiness (as in Beefsteak
types), and quickness to maturity. The early tomatoes ripen 8 to
10 weeks after planting while the later varieties ripen in about
12 weeks. Why not plant both to enjoy them longer?
Tomatoes are very frost sensitive. If you have grown your own plants
or purchased them you can get them used to light, wind, and variable
spring temperatures by setting them out during the day in shade
and moving them into a bit more sun each day for 5 days. Take them
back inside or into the garage overnight if freezing temperatures
are predicted. This is called "hardening off." You can
plant them directly into the garden on the May 24 weekend or when
all risk of frost has passed.
For all varieties (except Cherry Tomatoes) insert a strong stake
into the ground right beside the plant so you won't damage the root
system with insertion later. Or place a tomato cage over the whole
plant. As the tomato grows larger, tie the main stem securely to
the stake with rags or old pantyhose. Don't use rope or a twist
tie that can cut into tender plant tissue.
Since diseases can build up in the soil, grow your tomatoes in a
different part of your vegetable garden every year or at least every
2 years. This is known as "crop rotation" and it's a good
idea for all the vegetables you grow.
Also refer to
Gardening Tip #24 - COMPOSTING
Gardening Tip #25 - COMPANION
PLANTING
Gardening Tip #26 - STARTING
PLANTS FROM SEED
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